• Top-hero

    LC:M AW14: (From left to right) Casely Hayford, Agi & Sam, Burberry Prorsum, J.W. Anderson, Topman Design

Fashion

Fashion: Our exciting run-down of the top five London Collections: Men's AW14 shows!

Posted by Maisie Skidmore,

If you’re a dedicated It’s Nice That podcast listener then you may have heard a disgruntled Rob Alderson utter the words “it’s all just a bit confusing really, isn’t it?” in last night’s instalment, midway through our chat about London Collections: Men, the mens’ fashion spectacular which is currently sweeping through London. To rectify not only the general bewilderment about what exactly LC:M is, then, and to bring to your attention the shows we thought stood out the most, we thought we’d bring you roundup of our five favourite shows and the designers creating them.

  • Adi-and-sam-new

    LC:M AW14: Agi & Sam

Agi and Sam

Fresh from winning the British Fashion Award for best emerging menswear designers a couple of months back, Agi and Sam surprised show-goers with a collection mainly in black and white. Inspired (as Style.com informs me) by Agi Mdumulla’s recent trip through Masai territory to trace his heritage, the collection saw traditionally Western garments, “double-breasted coats and tailored suit jackets, for example—transformed by the addition of long, flowing layers, like those worn by African tribesmen”, executed in sharp black and white, in an exciting new direction for the usually colourful pair.

  • Burberry-final

    LC:M AW14: Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

How did he do it? How did Christopher Bailey, the creative director of Burberry, know that all we really wanted this to was see the long overdue revival of the string vest come to fruition on lots of tall men with dangerous-looking cheekbones and blankets slung nonchalantly over their shoulders while carrying ostentatious carpeted man-bags? It’s a mystery, of course, but the important thing is that he did. Leaf prints a’plenty and lots of cosy blankets in this one! Why? Because Christopher Bailey knows what’s up. That’s why.

  • Ch-edit

    LC:M AW14: Casely-Hayford

Casely-Hayford

Casely-Hayford is (to my knowledge) a one of a kind in the London Collections: Men shows, as the brand is headed up by a father and son duo, Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, who have a wealth of experience in traditional tailoring and styling hip hop stars respectively (among a bunch of other things). The result is a uniquely informed and yet determinedly forward-facing brand with an infallible eye for combining seemingly diverse references. This collection trawled happily through London sub-cultures of years gone by to give them a fresh and appealingly contemporary feel in an authentic blend of new styles and old influences. These guys.

  • Jw-anderson

    LC:M AW14: J.W. Anderson

J.W. Anderson

J.W. Anderson’s offering, the first since he became creative director of Spanish label Loewe, was not only a distinctly more polished affair but also a brilliantly unisex one. Unflinchingly high platform shoes were matched with what he refers to as some granny-like additions in the form of brooches, bags, frilly blouses and jacquard prints – so should any J.W. clad lads feel inclined to start sharing their apparel with a nearby lady, whatever her age, they can. Perhaps not your actual Gran, though. Warm textures, soft tones and collar shapes lent the collection an interestingly feminine edge, which went down well in a sea of masculine tailoring and serious shapes.

  • Topman-final

    LC:M AW14: Topman Design

Topman Design

Arguably no designer made a show more London-appropriate for AW14 than Topman Design, who celebrated the inherent style of a city where it inevitably starts to piss it down with rain every time you think about going outside, with a whole selection of sopping wet outfits. And they still looked chic, too! Even better, just when you thought the clothes couldn’t be any slicker, or the hair any shinier, Topman kindly made it rain onto the catwalk. Excellent.

The celebration of British style went further than just alluding to the weather, however; duffle coats, tartan highlights and a whole range of sharp tailoring pulled together diverse elements of London’s history to create a wonderfully complete, and damp, collection.

Ms-300

Posted by Maisie Skidmore

Assistant Editor Maisie joined It’s Nice That fresh out of university in the summer of 2013 and has stayed with us ever since. She has a particular interest in art, fashion and photography and is a regular on our Studio Audience podcast.

Most Recent: Fashion View Archive

  1. Martin-parr-henry-holland-itsnicethat

    Has there ever been a photographer/fashion designer duo as perfectly paired as Martin Parr and Henry Holland? The designer showed his new menswear collection under the moniker House of Holland at London Collections: Men yesterday. The collection was heavily influenced by the Magnum photographer and photojournalist, whose love of kitsch and heavily saturated shots of archetypal British scenes are a pillar of the British photography scene. The collection is available to shop right now over on the House of Holland site – which had crashed when we last checked in. If you want to see more in the meantime, Henry is Instagramming with the hashtag #MartinFuckingParr, which gives a hint as to how excited he is.

  2. Shesbad-still-dent-de-cuir-its-nice-that-list

    The winners of the Berlin Fashion Film Festival 2015 have been announced, with content for COS and a film about a fictional fashion designer that creates transparent clothing scooping some of the top prizes.

  3. Crash-jacquemus-itsnicethat-list

    When Simon Porte Jacquemus won the esteemed LVMH Special prize last week, not only was his presence cemented in the hearts, minds and fashion editorials of stripe-loving fashion aficionados (fashionados?) worldwide. The occasion also marked the beginning of an exciting new era for the young French designer where financial aid will be slightly less difficult to come by, allowing him to make more, bigger, better collections. Hurrah! With any luck, Simon will soon be applying his silhouette-transforming pieces to more bodies and making more funny giant-pants-to-be-worn-as-dresses in the process.

  4. Aleksandra_kingo_la_monda_its_nice_that_list

    By now fashion photography has fully embraced awkward imagery. The tasteful and the kitsch sit side-by-side in such a way that strange juxtapositions, unnatural body language and odd props can all add up to make a successful image. Lithuanian photographer Aleksandra Kingo takes on some of these ideas in her eye-catching, surreal pictures.

  5. Snarkitecture_it's_nice_that_list

    Following their installation for COS at last month’s Salone del Mobile, Alex Mustonen and Daniel Arsham’s experimental design studio Snarkitecture has branched out into clothing with its latest project, a capsule collection with custom print company Print All Over Me (PAOM). But these are not ordinary clothes, and in true Snarkitecture style, they find the unexpected in the familiar.

  6. Bfc-lfw-list

    If you’ve ever stepped through the gateway from the Strand to Somerset House’s inner square during one of the two week-long periods each year when it’s transformed for London Fashion Week, you’ll know that it’s a hallowed space. Somerset House has become synonymous with the British Fashion Council’s biannual spectacle, which sees it transformed into an enormous arena for models, press, peacocks and show-goers. So it comes as quite a surprise that after six years of hosting the event at Somerset House the British Fashion Council has announced that LFW will now take place at Soho’s Brewer Street Carpark.

  7. Karenelson-timwalker-itsnicethat-list

    As It’s Nice That’s resident fashion expert (ahem) I know a strong editorial shoot when I see one, and this one for Vogue’s May edition is as good as they get. In it you’ll see Karen Elson wearing all manner of clothing by various clothes-makers – all of which look stunning. But stuff the outfits, this is all about the locations and the luxurious referencing of south Asian iconography. Tim, Samantha Bryant and Duffy travelled all the way to Bhutan to shoot Karen in the Himalayas alongside a supporting cast of masked imps and Bhutanese locals, weaving a surreal narrative of pagan mysticism and evoking an atmosphere akin to the hippie trail.

  8. List

    If a theatrical tradition can last for over four centuries you can assume it’s pretty damn entertaining, and Japan’s Kabuki culture has done just that. It’s one of the country’s traditional performing arts, combining music, dance, elaborate costumes and striking face paint to riotous effect, with extremely dramatic results.

  9. David-james-uma-thurman-int-list

    Lucien Freud, Kate Moss, Joaquin Phoenix…it reads like that list of dream dinner party guests you have to reel out in awkward “getting to know you" games. But it’s more than that: this all-star list is just a sliver of the cast that creative director David James has worked with over the years. David has been creative director at AnOther Magazine for the past decade, creating iconic images with photographers including Craig McDean, Willy Vanderperre and Nick Knight. If you missed out on getting the mags IRL, don’t fret: today sees the launch of Everything that Matters – an online retrospective of David’s editorial work. It makes for a lovely little scroll, even if it does make us feel pretty old to think that the time that’s passed since 2005 is retrospective-worthy.

  10. Prada-int-list-4

    Large-scale luxury brands tend to be fairly guarded when it comes to their extensive archives, guarding them under the technological equivalent of those two cheeky goblins in Labyrinth. Not Prada. Recognising the truth in the notion that sharing is caring, the house has just published the whole of its archive online, in a carefully tailored site which makes it entertaining AND easily navigable.

  11. Mosaert-lookbook-int-list

    If like me you were regularly dragged off to your local Olan Mills photographic studio as a child to have family portraits taken of you and your siblings looking unusually clean and composed in front of a dappled background, you might be similarly drawn to Mosaert’s new lookbook. Carefully constructed like the most stylish family pics, they feature a whole bunch of models immaculately robed in Mosaert’s bright new collection, and there’s something innately compelling about them.

  12. Kenzo-ss15-list-int

    If you thought that writing a Printed Pages feature about KENZO – in which I delve in glorious technicolour detail into the brand’s past collaborations over the course of a 12-page spread – would stop my perpetual blathering on about them, then I’m afraid you thought wrong. It’s a new season, meaning a whole new visual campaign, and as ever I’m incapable of reining in my admiration for the masterminds behind KENZO’s art direction.

  13. List

    Assistant editor Maisie Skidmore chimes in on the debate about the presence of full-frontal male nudity in Rick Owens’ AW15 collection which showed in Paris a few days ago. Do you think penises on the catwalk are a step too far? Leave your comments below!