Fashion Archive

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    We’ve railed before about the tendency towards po-faced pretentiousness that still characterises the fashion world so give thanks and praise for Adam Morley and Dulcie Cowling. The duo – who tickled us last year with their surreal adverts for unloved foodstuffs like watercress – have teamed up with Rankin’s Hunger magazine to produce three shorts on prints, accessories and colour.

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    Do you ever think it’s worrying that there’s so much batshit crazy stuff on the World Wide Web that this concept, a dog wearing current trends, doesn’t even seem that weird anymore? Do you know what I mean? Anyway, this Tumblr is only a baby so there’s only four photos on it so far, but it’s enough to get the gist of what it’s going to include from now on, and that’s a fox-like dog from NYC wearing fashionable menswear. The submit section is, so far, empty, so if you’ve got a cute dog and some expensive denim…you know what to do.

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    There’s something about the way these models are standing that’s kind of reminiscent of those cut-out-and-dress dolls with the paper tabs sticking out of them — some trick of the light makes them appear almost collage-like. Truthfully, we thought that’s exactly what they were, until on closer inspection we realised these are just well-lit photographs of models walking along in a studio — how silly were we? Eckhaus Latta’s ethereal, floaty creations are consistently recorded in their notoriously brilliant look books and shows, some of which are more human installations than mere studio shots. Very cool.

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    Craig Green was the talk of the town a few years back when he smashed his seriously impressive St Martins BA final collection out the park. Now he’s reached such heights that even The Daily Mail are interested in him (for perhaps the wrong reasons) and is once again setting Twitter alight with fashion bloggers clamouring to write about his A/W 13 collection first. So why all the hype?

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    There’s a lot of ancient art cropping up in contemporary culture these days – it’s hard to endlessly scroll through visual feasts of blogs without coming across a Titian next to a pair of rare Nike Air Max’s. Ernesto Artillo is making blog-worthy collages combining high-end, seriously trendy photography of supermodels and ancient pieces of art in a terrific dusty fig/Italian sunset palette. The way he combines epic-worthy muscles with kind of terrifying plants is pretty astounding. Doing a bit of fashion editorial? Need some visuals? Ernesto’s your man.

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    Famed for his exceptional fashion and portraiture shoots, legendary British photographer Snowdon has been at the forefront of the European artistic (not to mention aristocratic) elite since the 1950s. His reputation as a prodigious photographic talent was compounded by his unusual quirk of requesting that many of his subjects pose in clothing of his own choosing; namely blue shirts in a variety of different styles.

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    In recent months we’ve seen lookbooks which pull out every trick in the attention-seeking arsenal in a bid to get noticed, often at the expense of the actual clothes themselves. It’s a refreshing change then to come across this collection from Berlin-based label mint & berry which is presented in a beautifully-designed little tome which hasn’t forgotten what it’s there to do. So really clean, crisp photography complements the garments (which combine contemporary Scandinavian style with vintage touches) and the whole thing feels effortlessly, coherently stylish. Top work all round.

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    There are certain items of clothing that make a statement – turn up in a cape and people will think you’re an aristocrat with a dark past, don a feather boa and you immediately scream louche pleasure-seeker. Rock up in a bow-tie though and people will think you’re a smart guy with a twinkle in your eye, a roguish professor-type with sartorial standards and a sense of fun. Step forward then Charles Olive, a British bow-tie brand which combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary style, so much so that some of their pieces are even designed using Excel spreadsheets. Their new look-book is a treat and if you’re anything like me you’ll just keep wondering why you don’t wear a bow-tie more often.

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    You may have seen the lovely fashion blogger Marie My popping up on all sorts of Tumblrs recently in some of her unbelievable outfit creations. But we were keen to find out what this Danish girl who’s just finished her A-Levels has on her shelves (apart from hundreds of pairs of carefully sourced vintage shoes). As it happens, Marie’s shelves are an absolute treat, boasting obscure visual reference books, informative fashion publications and some (tasteful) street art thrown in for good measure.

  10. Petronio-list

    For those of us that don’t rank highly enough on the fashion VIP radar, this is probably as close as we’ll ever get to seeing a fashion week invite in the flesh. Looks good doesn’t it? All shiny, foiled and exclusive. Makes me want to put my glad rags on and hit the catwalk’s front row. But for now I’m happy just to enjoy the design in photographs, largely due to the wonderfully crisp execution of Petronio Associates.

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    Fashions come and go, passing as quickly as my craze for tucking tracksuit bottoms into socks, wearing those whiter-than-white trainers while rocking the wet look hair – a somewhat brief and ill-advised fashion interlude I’d like to add! Well, thank heavens we can change and adapt, a principle not lost on Korean designer Jung Eunyoung, who responds to the adaptive nature of fashion and trendsetting by dressing furniture in a number of different outfits.

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    Such is my mum’s obsession with the amount of heat you lose through your head that I’ve never really regarded hats as anything ore than functional temperature regulators. Well more fool me, because millinery is an artform steeped in fashion and culture, and Bernstock and Speirs have been at the height of the hat-game for 30 years now. To celebrate this milestone, a show at Fred (London) Ltd has brought together some of the best known creations of Paul (Bernstock) and Thelma (Speirs). The pair have made hats for the likes of French and Saunders, Kylie and collaborated with big names including Agnes B. and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

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    It’s not often you get confronted with a body of work that have the visual equivalent of a cold glass of juice in the morning, but Frederik’s got it down. In his delightfully weird body of work, Frederik boasts fantastical hand-made sets complete with urine-based props alongside some very, very crisp high-end fashion campaigns. Not content on just getting beautiful models to do the visual job for him, Frederik shoves cigars in their mouths, paints horses on to them, or elongates their arms into big meaty tubes. Seeing a guy who’s this good at what he does but with a big element of “I’ll do whatever the hell I want” is refreshing, hilarious and very impressive. Read a fantastic interview with the man himself over on Zero One Magazine.

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    It’s a big, nay strange statement, but Mary Katrantzou’s new collection is kind of what I imagine all the babes of the earth get to wear in the afterlife. These stamp-inspired outfits are showing just why Mary Katrantzou is hailed as a goddess by the fashion world, her ability to make clothing that is elegantly ethereal, but still means cold, hard business. If this is Mary thinks spring and summer of 2013 looks like, then so be it. Dress me, Mary, dress me.

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    Snappy dressers and stylish types listen carefully, we’re about to show you a little piece of fashion excellence from the inimitable Kenzo and their men’s F/W 2012 collection. We’ve already demonstrated their collaborative genius in the form of Carl Burgess’ womenswear promo, but like all great brands, Kenzo know only too well that the follow up needs to be just as good as the original.

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    You may be aware that we’re not exactly experts when it comes to fashion. High-end clothing to us is like fine jewellery to a child, we want to reach out and touch its shiny surfaces but would have literally no idea what to do with it were we suddenly gifted a couture wardrobe. Still, we know what we like, and what we like tends to be mad as a bag of bats – and that’s as mad as it gets.

  17. Willis-list

    Michael Willis is no stranger to antiquated imagery. The London-based designer and illustrator produces anachronistic compositions that place Grecian nudes in fluorescent Miami landscapes and doric columns among the paraphernalia of a luxurious cocktail party.

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    Following on from his 2010 film This Is Not A Suit, Adrien Sauvage returns with a brand new, though decidedly aged, infomercial, The Student, that restates and expands upon the idea of D.E – a relaxed sartorial philosophy coined by Adrien that takes inspiration from Gus Van Sant. Here we see it applied to a variety of day-to-day scenarios, from egg-eating to recreational dancing. Written and directed by the designer himself, and starring Submarine’s Craig Roberts, this excellent piece of film is perfectly paced and acerbically witty. “The student has already perfected the art of not rising before 12…”

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    Few clothing collections can claim to be truly revolutionary (although many press releases will have a go) but Issey Miyake’s 1993 Pleats Please can justly be designated as such.Cut and sewn from fabric that is nearly three times bigger than the final pieces, the garments are fed into a pleats machine to combine texture and form in a beautiful way.

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    When you hear the phrases “Julius Caesar” and “opera” chances are that your first thought isn’t groundbreaking contemporary art, but the Fabulous Beast Dance Theatre are famed for their daring originality and you just have to glance at the beautiful costume designs for their upcoming English National Opera production to see why.

  21. Kenzo-list

    If you’re not familiar with the work of Carl Burgess then here’s the 101 – Carl Makes insanely cool 3D digital and video works in which the main inspiration is web culture. Remember those glitchy vectors that proliferated the video games of your youth? Carl loves them. And stock video and photography that you just can’t quite see the use of (why ARE all these people in suits weeping?) – he can turn that stuff into a killer music video.

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    You get the feeling when you walk into the Royal College of Art that you’re in a laboratory of buzzing brains, because every student in there is either on their way to brilliance, or already there. Esprit seems to have taken notice of the RCA’s habit of churning out some of the most fantastic, fresh-faced and eager fashion designers in the world and has set the students a brief asking “Can fashion can be truly sustainable?”

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    Us humans are a perplexing bunch. Tell us that we can’t have something and my word that is the ONLY thing in the world we can think about. Iconic Italian fashion brand Missoni seem to appreciate this and so have collaborated with Converse to bring back some of their deadstock fabrics which are no longer available.

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    Renowned for their self-proclaimed UK’s Largest Street Style Archive, it comes as no surprise that the series of short, beautiful videos this fashion brand have released are spot-on style-wise. Each video follows young, successful people with exceedingly good taste (a food stylist, an actress, a tattoo artist and a menswear designer/dj) around their day-to-day business with a very good camera, giving us a sneaky peek into their dribble-inducingly enviable lives . I mention the camera only because they have somehow managed to make Brixton look like the most expensive parts of Brooklyn, which, if you’ve been to Brixton, isn’t quite the case. So on-trend hats off to Coggles! We can’t wait to see who they shadow next.

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    Frankly there are not many men out there that can go about town sporting pink leggings and still manage to maintain their dignity, let alone their cool. So when Colombian photographer Daniella Benedetti set about photographing Parisian fashion label Pigalle’s latest collection – complete with multiple variations of male pink leggings – I think it is fair to say that she had quite a task laid before her. But photograph she did and I think it is safe to say that the results are simply stunning.

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    The King and Queen of pattern are undoubtedly Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto – in their studio behind Brixton Prison they are producing stonking patterns, season after season. 

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    To be honest I’m not entirely sure how the procedure of non-creepy model-browsing is normally carried out. Is it like a menu that you order from? Do you scroll through hundreds of faces on an iPad? Pick a ball out of a lottery wheel? Whatever you do, this way of exhibiting all of an agency’s models in one go is fine by me. IMG are renowned for being proud owners of some of the best faces in the business, and to be quite honest it doesn’t take much adornment to the images of these ladies to make them stand out, but these mixed-media look-books? They’re lo-fi, friendly and fun – everything you need for picking the best model for the spring/summer shoots.

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    It’s pretty much a given that a video look-book for Miu Miu’s AW12 collection, which has already spurred worldwide drooling, is going to be a thing of beauty. To celebrate the collection, Miu Miu have commissioned four up-and-coming women in the film industry to create four films entitled Women’s Tales. All magnificent in their own way, we were particularly caught by Massy Tadjedin’s It’s Getting Late, a short film starring well-respected female actresses such as Gemma Arterton and Patricia Clarkson getting ready to attend an intimate Zola Jesus gig. Watch as four women end their daily activities, slip into some evening-wear and head out on the town. Sounds cheesy, I know, but thanks to Zola Jesus’ haunting soundtrack, it’s kind of more on the creepy side and definitely does the required job, which is make those clothes look powerful, beautiful and wearable all in one go.

  29. Sauvagelist

    Fashion Designer Adrien Sauvage has an unconventional attitude towards the promotion of his suit collections. Instead of cladding chiseled young models in a whole outfit of his own creation he invites a select group of prominent creatives and tastemakers to model just one item from a current line. This Is Not A Suit, the ongoing title of the project, has led Sauvage to the US, Ghana and his native London to photograph the underdogs of celebrity culture (as well as fishermen, Vietnam veterans and ageing basketball players) and drape them all in beautifully tailored garments.

  30. Couv-list

    Whether you love them or hate them, fashion magazines never fail to spark controversy. On the one hand they’re inherently elitist and raise alarming questions about our attitudes towards women, body image and economic inequality that some consider to be the very worst aspects of western culture. On the other hand isn’t their key purpose quite a simple one; to show off beautiful sartorial creations in the most flattering way possible – and don’t they do it rather well? Whichever side of the fence you sit on it’s probably a debate you’ve grown weary of.

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    There’s something about the 8-bit aesthetic that strikes a chord with everyone of a certain generation, calling to mind those halcyon days when everyone had the same games console and a tablet was something you took for hay fever. Shanghai-based designer Sabine Ducasse has mastered that look in her award-winning Melting Pot collection, which fuses perler beads together into wearable garments that definitely take you back to the future.

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    Shall we all just give a quick standing ovation to those that still scan in beautiful things to the heavily breathing, over-loaded beast that is the internet? Thanks to Miss Moss we can enjoy these brilliant old “Art of Vogue” covers which she has carefully taken from a real book and shared with us to scroll through happily on the web. It’s no secret that Vogue covers used to be illustrations, but the chance to really look at them and marvel at the huge range of illustrators commissioned to design them – namely Helen Dryden, Georges Lepap, Harriett Maserol, George Plank and Eduardo Benito – is a huge treat.

  33. Rapha-list

    Cycle enthusiasts be warned, there’s a new place in town for you to splurge away your hard-earned salary in a matter of minutes, sedated by the enticing smell of fresh croissants, piping hot coffee and the comforting sound of road-race commentary. Rapha, the most premium of all cycle apparel manufacturers, has just opened a brand new permanent cycle club in London’s Soho and it’s a wonderful place to be.

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    If rich mahogany and racing green twinsets are your idea of a good night in then Jil Sander’s pre-fall collection is most definitely for you. Photographed in the wood-panelled studies of America’s Ivy League colleges, the collection has academic chic written all over it. Clothing aside (we’re no experts in restrained knitwear) Ben Weller’s photographs of the collections are pitch-perfect, beautifully capturing the subtle narrative of the collection and its progression from relaxed embroidered sportswear to ultra-refined evening wear.

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    “Oh no, they’ve turned the Union flag blue!” went the Daily Mail headline, plunging us once again into Olympic design controversy. This time it wasn’t the use of garish colours or inaccessible design provoking a reaction but the simple omission of a bright red cross on the Team GB kit. Despite the inclusion of crimson trim and various other red accessories across the range, die-hard patriots found themselves outraged by the designs, and took to any comment section available to vent their spleen. “Whoever gave Stella this contract needs a good kicking!!” read one comment and “GAH!…IT BURNS MY EYES!” went another. Others deemed it to be “more Scottish than British.”

  36. Qjlist

    When you’re the go-to creative for a whole host of fashion brands and publications who are happy to give you the freedom to do what you do best, it’s safe to assume you’re at the top of your game. We’re not really sure how illustrator and filmmaker Quentin Jones finds any time to sleep given the amount of great work she’s been producing lately but our brain space is taken up with all the gawping.

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    Sir Paul Smith is not like other fashion designers. Despite being one of the foremost creative figures of his generation, he retains a marvellous personal touch, answering all the letters he receives personally and happy to open up his process and personality with a tongue-in-cheek humour that jars with traditional ideas of haute couture.

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    The brothers Foxall have been designing together since 2006, launching the first incarnation of their studio from a disused Ottoman Jail in Istanbul. They’ve since upped sticks and moved back to London where they create and consult for leading fashion brands including Aquascutum, GQ, Bora Aksu and PPQ. Between them they manage a whole host of creative endeavours whether redesigning the layout of a magazine or consulting on music for a retail space.

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    Working largely with printed and painted textile patterns, paper cut surfaces and abstract shapes, London-based Saskia Pomeroy’s practice is a playful and applicable creative kit of parts for illustration, fashion and design. All at once dynamic and still life, her compositions are built with reduced forms that work their way into seamlessly aesthetic groupings on the page and very successful collaborations in the real world. With a lovely body of work behind her and a recent exhibition under her belt, we asked thought her a great choice for an Introducing… feature.

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    Escapism is a pretty potent emotion and one that Palmer West and Jonah Smith are well used to tapping into. The duo produced films like Waking Life and Requiem for a Dream and now run LA-based clothing label Aether Apparel which specialises in multi-weather outdoor gear for people who don’t want to sacrifice every semblance of style.