Fashion Archive

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    How the jiggery did we not know about this super project from Paris-based Korean designer Yvette Yang which has been going for SIX years now. For every season since 2007 Yvette has produced a Fashion-Font which turns the trends of that particular set of collections into a typeface. The hand-made results are fascinating, reflecting the whims of our sartorial overlords in a quirky, communicative and novel way.

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    Each day as Ali walks to work he passes a cafe where photographer Zoe Spawton works. One day, noticing how he wore consistently spectacular outfit, Zoe began photographing him and blogging about his sartorial choices. Not sneering or patronising, this blog is quite simply celebrating an elderly man full of character who does not just take genuine pride in his clothes, but has a true eye for style.

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    Barbara Hepworth has inspired countless creatives down the decades, the latest of which is fashion designer Peter Jensen. His new spring/summer womenswear collection directly referenced the “organic, feminine shapes of her work” and for its British launch last week, it was shown off amidst her sculptures at the the wonderful Hepworth Wakefield Gallery.

  4. Lupfer-list

    If fashion designer Markus Lupfer is to be believed, trendy men everywhere will be breaking out polkadot kilts and sweaters with marching bugs on them this summer. I’m all for it. Looking ahead to AW2013 Markus predicts a more restrained selection of gentleman’s skirts paired with camouflage shirts, surfing mice and an agile crab. At least that’s what we’re taking away from this promo video from illustrating whizz Rose Blake and animator Andy Baker that features a colourful array of inquisitive animated wildlife interacting with a rather sombre pair of grey models. Look out for the mouse with the hosepipe tail, he’s a real mischief-maker…

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    You love a dance-off, we love a dance-off, heck everyone in the world loves a dance-off truth be told. But this is a dance-off with a difference and is a fitting launch for the Diesel + Edun Studio Africa project we got all excited about last week.

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    We’re only just getting back to normal after the absolute barrage of fashion photography that’s been swarming around the internet in the last few weeks due to London and then Paris Fashion Week. Neither street-style, high-end editorial nor too trendy, this fashion photography has got a special quality to it that makes it stand out by miles from the rest. In his behind-the-scenes shots of shows, Erik Wåhlström manages to capture models pulling funny faces, chomping on bananas and just generally being normal human beings. His friendly, warmly-lit style makes him an absolute hit with some of the best magazines out there — it doesn’t hurt that he’s pretty spectacular at still-life shots too.

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    “You know what the difference is between you and me,” Will Smith asks Tommy Lee Jones in Men in Black, “I make this look GOOD.” In his character’s cocksure way, the artist formerly known as the Fresh Prince has hit the nail on the head – that in this world looks might not be everything, but they count for an awful lot. The fine folk at Rapha have long understood this, and so it was no surprise to find their Spring/Summer lookbook packed full of so many gorgeous photographs. From sweeping vistas to intimate lycra-clad moments (steady), Rapha’s team seem to have an intuitive grasp of how to make cycling look its very best.

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    The great thing about Fred Perry is that the classic polo t-shirt is not just a great wardrobe staple, it’s synonymous with everything from This is England-esque skinhead party scenes to strawberries on the lawns of the mansions of famous tennis players. Now this classic brand is turning the ripe old age of 60, it has summoned some of the best creatives in the world of art and fashion to reinterpret the t-shirt as they see fit.

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    There’s been a lot of chatter around Diesel’s new hook-up with Edun, which goes well beyond a new denim range made in Uganda. To promote the project they’ve approached a host of exciting up-and-coming creative talents who represent the cream of the new generation of African practitioners, from photographers and fashion designers to artists and bloggers. Bringing them together as Studio Africa, the hope is to create “a virtual loudspeaker and platform for a new generation of creative talents from across the continent.” This teaser video released this week has a really nice energy about it as well as some gorgeous shots and there’s a host of live events, broadcasts and more video content on the way.

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    Haw-Lin, the godfathers of scroll (I literally just made that up) and the original image-bankers are famed for their impeccable taste. It makes complete sense, then, for them to be commissioned increasingly regularly to be stylists. In this recent work for Sueddeutsche Zeitung magazine, Nathan and Jacob utilise luscious props and coloured backgrounds to make a fashion shoot that wouldn’t look entirely out of place in a mid 1980s, spring/summer Vogue spread. These are some very clever boys, and no one should underestimate their talents, or their consistently extraordinary mood boards.

  11. Seetal-list

    When your client list includes Topshop, New Look, Zara and All Saints, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Missoni and Chloé, you can probably safely assume that you’re well-respected in the fashion industry. When these guys are lining up at your door you know you’ve made it big. Which must be a massive relief for Seetal Solanki, a graduate of Central St Martin’s, who’s spent the last ten years honing her skills as a textile printer, freelancing in a number of well-respected studios and creating collections for numerous high-street retailers. And what skills they are! Seetal has an exceptional talent when it comes to hand-printing fabrics, creating richly detailed patterns that are immensely complex in their construction. If you’ve not seen her work in the flesh before, mark our words, you’ll be inundated with it in 2013.

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    In the hierarchy of London’s iconic points, Centre Point is a curious case. Rising 385 feet into the skyline, it is visible for miles around and yet few Londoners have any real affection towards it, predominantly because most of us have no idea what goes on inside it. But maybe that’s going to change after the building’s owners Almacantar commissioned the brilliant Eley Kishimoto to create a series of patterns inspired by Centre Point.

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    I don’t know if you’ve seen My Week With Marilyn but I saw it recently, and by the end of it I was pretty much convinced that Marilyn Monroe was alive and well, purely due to Michelle Williams being fantastic. Fashion and culture hoarders AnOther Magazine have taken note of Michelle’s surprisingly underrated brilliance and have whacked her on the cover of their latest issue — four times! Although only one cover will be used in print, in this exclusive release we reveal the four very different alternative covers, each starring the lady herself. These images remind us not just of Michelle’s beauty, but of her consistently diverse acting career. Not many people can swing gracefully from Dawson’s Creek to some of the biggest films of the last decade, but oh, Michelle can.

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    Ari Seth Cohen will go down in the internet history books for making the style blog that championed the beautiful and extraordinarily stylish women of New York City. The flamboyant, impeccably dressed ladies that graced the pages of Advanced Style have become the muse to a whole host of designers and artists inspired by these women’s unfaltering lust for life. Fashion designer Karen Walker is no exception, and has enlisted Ari to help her get these women to model her new line of rather spectacular sunglasses. The result is magnificent — I mean how often is it that you look forward to being old and get an urge to buy sunglasses at the same time?

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    We always knew that we needed a big name to close our first ever creative symposium Here and they don’t come much bigger than fashion designer Sir Paul Smith. In an honest, funny and insightful talk he spoke about his early days, the lessons he has learned and the way in which he looks at the world around for him for inspiration. It was a tour de force of a talk and a huge privilege to see one of the design world’s true luminaries up close and personal. Today we are delighted to release Sir Paul’s talk for the first time as part of our countdown to this year’s event.

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    There’s something about a glorious lampoon that really floats my boat, and the latest genre in the crosshairs is the uber-affected arty fashion film. Directed by Matthew Frost and starring Lizzy Caplan, Fashion Film is a thing of proper piss-taking beauty, ticking off self-indulgent clichés with brutal, sun-kissed efficacy. So Lizzy is all about quirky objects, little-known 1960s bands and vintage paperbacks (called Vintage Paperback), she has her art, likes to frolic outside and admits: “Sometimes I think to myself in French.” It reminds me of Adam Buxton’s wonderful take-down of self-conscious music videos and Fashion Film relies on some high production values to really ramp up the ridicule. Kudos to all involved and in particular Viva Vena! the brand for whom this anti-film is a promo.

  17. Aw1314-list

    Don’t ever say we don’t keep you updated with the latest menswear trends. The fact that I’m wearing a ragged old woollen jumper as I write should do nothing to dissuade you from the fact that we know a good AW13/14 collection when we see one. This one in particular has got us incredibly excited for its distinctly graphic sensibilities. Études is an intercontinental collaboration between Parisian artists Aurélien Arbet & Jérémie Egry. Operating between Paris and New York the pair work on a variety of creative projects ranging from book design and publishing to men’s contemporary fashion.

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    About a year ago we featured a surreal and magnificent short film about a communist werewolf submariner. The direction and script were hilarious, but the set and prop design stole the show; all constructed by LA-based creative Adi Goodrich. The hugely talented Californian has a list of clients longer than my arm that include international names like Wieden + Kennedy, Michel Gondry, Pizza Hut and Universal Records, and she’s renowned for her punchy, colourful sets for fashion shoots.

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    We’ve railed before about the tendency towards po-faced pretentiousness that still characterises the fashion world so give thanks and praise for Adam Morley and Dulcie Cowling. The duo – who tickled us last year with their surreal adverts for unloved foodstuffs like watercress – have teamed up with Rankin’s Hunger magazine to produce three shorts on prints, accessories and colour.

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    Do you ever think it’s worrying that there’s so much batshit crazy stuff on the World Wide Web that this concept, a dog wearing current trends, doesn’t even seem that weird anymore? Do you know what I mean? Anyway, this Tumblr is only a baby so there’s only four photos on it so far, but it’s enough to get the gist of what it’s going to include from now on, and that’s a fox-like dog from NYC wearing fashionable menswear. The submit section is, so far, empty, so if you’ve got a cute dog and some expensive denim…you know what to do.

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    There’s something about the way these models are standing that’s kind of reminiscent of those cut-out-and-dress dolls with the paper tabs sticking out of them — some trick of the light makes them appear almost collage-like. Truthfully, we thought that’s exactly what they were, until on closer inspection we realised these are just well-lit photographs of models walking along in a studio — how silly were we? Eckhaus Latta’s ethereal, floaty creations are consistently recorded in their notoriously brilliant look books and shows, some of which are more human installations than mere studio shots. Very cool.

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    Craig Green was the talk of the town a few years back when he smashed his seriously impressive St Martins BA final collection out the park. Now he’s reached such heights that even The Daily Mail are interested in him (for perhaps the wrong reasons) and is once again setting Twitter alight with fashion bloggers clamouring to write about his A/W 13 collection first. So why all the hype?

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    There’s a lot of ancient art cropping up in contemporary culture these days – it’s hard to endlessly scroll through visual feasts of blogs without coming across a Titian next to a pair of rare Nike Air Max’s. Ernesto Artillo is making blog-worthy collages combining high-end, seriously trendy photography of supermodels and ancient pieces of art in a terrific dusty fig/Italian sunset palette. The way he combines epic-worthy muscles with kind of terrifying plants is pretty astounding. Doing a bit of fashion editorial? Need some visuals? Ernesto’s your man.

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    Famed for his exceptional fashion and portraiture shoots, legendary British photographer Snowdon has been at the forefront of the European artistic (not to mention aristocratic) elite since the 1950s. His reputation as a prodigious photographic talent was compounded by his unusual quirk of requesting that many of his subjects pose in clothing of his own choosing; namely blue shirts in a variety of different styles.

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    In recent months we’ve seen lookbooks which pull out every trick in the attention-seeking arsenal in a bid to get noticed, often at the expense of the actual clothes themselves. It’s a refreshing change then to come across this collection from Berlin-based label mint & berry which is presented in a beautifully-designed little tome which hasn’t forgotten what it’s there to do. So really clean, crisp photography complements the garments (which combine contemporary Scandinavian style with vintage touches) and the whole thing feels effortlessly, coherently stylish. Top work all round.

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    There are certain items of clothing that make a statement – turn up in a cape and people will think you’re an aristocrat with a dark past, don a feather boa and you immediately scream louche pleasure-seeker. Rock up in a bow-tie though and people will think you’re a smart guy with a twinkle in your eye, a roguish professor-type with sartorial standards and a sense of fun. Step forward then Charles Olive, a British bow-tie brand which combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary style, so much so that some of their pieces are even designed using Excel spreadsheets. Their new look-book is a treat and if you’re anything like me you’ll just keep wondering why you don’t wear a bow-tie more often.

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    You may have seen the lovely fashion blogger Marie My popping up on all sorts of Tumblrs recently in some of her unbelievable outfit creations. But we were keen to find out what this Danish girl who’s just finished her A-Levels has on her shelves (apart from hundreds of pairs of carefully sourced vintage shoes). As it happens, Marie’s shelves are an absolute treat, boasting obscure visual reference books, informative fashion publications and some (tasteful) street art thrown in for good measure.

  28. Petronio-list

    For those of us that don’t rank highly enough on the fashion VIP radar, this is probably as close as we’ll ever get to seeing a fashion week invite in the flesh. Looks good doesn’t it? All shiny, foiled and exclusive. Makes me want to put my glad rags on and hit the catwalk’s front row. But for now I’m happy just to enjoy the design in photographs, largely due to the wonderfully crisp execution of Petronio Associates.

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    Fashions come and go, passing as quickly as my craze for tucking tracksuit bottoms into socks, wearing those whiter-than-white trainers while rocking the wet look hair – a somewhat brief and ill-advised fashion interlude I’d like to add! Well, thank heavens we can change and adapt, a principle not lost on Korean designer Jung Eunyoung, who responds to the adaptive nature of fashion and trendsetting by dressing furniture in a number of different outfits.

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    Such is my mum’s obsession with the amount of heat you lose through your head that I’ve never really regarded hats as anything ore than functional temperature regulators. Well more fool me, because millinery is an artform steeped in fashion and culture, and Bernstock and Speirs have been at the height of the hat-game for 30 years now. To celebrate this milestone, a show at Fred (London) Ltd has brought together some of the best known creations of Paul (Bernstock) and Thelma (Speirs). The pair have made hats for the likes of French and Saunders, Kylie and collaborated with big names including Agnes B. and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

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    It’s not often you get confronted with a body of work that have the visual equivalent of a cold glass of juice in the morning, but Frederik’s got it down. In his delightfully weird body of work, Frederik boasts fantastical hand-made sets complete with urine-based props alongside some very, very crisp high-end fashion campaigns. Not content on just getting beautiful models to do the visual job for him, Frederik shoves cigars in their mouths, paints horses on to them, or elongates their arms into big meaty tubes. Seeing a guy who’s this good at what he does but with a big element of “I’ll do whatever the hell I want” is refreshing, hilarious and very impressive. Read a fantastic interview with the man himself over on Zero One Magazine.

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    It’s a big, nay strange statement, but Mary Katrantzou’s new collection is kind of what I imagine all the babes of the earth get to wear in the afterlife. These stamp-inspired outfits are showing just why Mary Katrantzou is hailed as a goddess by the fashion world, her ability to make clothing that is elegantly ethereal, but still means cold, hard business. If this is Mary thinks spring and summer of 2013 looks like, then so be it. Dress me, Mary, dress me.

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    Snappy dressers and stylish types listen carefully, we’re about to show you a little piece of fashion excellence from the inimitable Kenzo and their men’s F/W 2012 collection. We’ve already demonstrated their collaborative genius in the form of Carl Burgess’ womenswear promo, but like all great brands, Kenzo know only too well that the follow up needs to be just as good as the original.

  34. Geoffreylillemon-list

    You may be aware that we’re not exactly experts when it comes to fashion. High-end clothing to us is like fine jewellery to a child, we want to reach out and touch its shiny surfaces but would have literally no idea what to do with it were we suddenly gifted a couture wardrobe. Still, we know what we like, and what we like tends to be mad as a bag of bats – and that’s as mad as it gets.

  35. Willis-list

    Michael Willis is no stranger to antiquated imagery. The London-based designer and illustrator produces anachronistic compositions that place Grecian nudes in fluorescent Miami landscapes and doric columns among the paraphernalia of a luxurious cocktail party.

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    Following on from his 2010 film This Is Not A Suit, Adrien Sauvage returns with a brand new, though decidedly aged, infomercial, The Student, that restates and expands upon the idea of D.E – a relaxed sartorial philosophy coined by Adrien that takes inspiration from Gus Van Sant. Here we see it applied to a variety of day-to-day scenarios, from egg-eating to recreational dancing. Written and directed by the designer himself, and starring Submarine’s Craig Roberts, this excellent piece of film is perfectly paced and acerbically witty. “The student has already perfected the art of not rising before 12…”

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    Few clothing collections can claim to be truly revolutionary (although many press releases will have a go) but Issey Miyake’s 1993 Pleats Please can justly be designated as such.Cut and sewn from fabric that is nearly three times bigger than the final pieces, the garments are fed into a pleats machine to combine texture and form in a beautiful way.

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    When you hear the phrases “Julius Caesar” and “opera” chances are that your first thought isn’t groundbreaking contemporary art, but the Fabulous Beast Dance Theatre are famed for their daring originality and you just have to glance at the beautiful costume designs for their upcoming English National Opera production to see why.

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    If you’re not familiar with the work of Carl Burgess then here’s the 101 – Carl Makes insanely cool 3D digital and video works in which the main inspiration is web culture. Remember those glitchy vectors that proliferated the video games of your youth? Carl loves them. And stock video and photography that you just can’t quite see the use of (why ARE all these people in suits weeping?) – he can turn that stuff into a killer music video.

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    You get the feeling when you walk into the Royal College of Art that you’re in a laboratory of buzzing brains, because every student in there is either on their way to brilliance, or already there. Esprit seems to have taken notice of the RCA’s habit of churning out some of the most fantastic, fresh-faced and eager fashion designers in the world and has set the students a brief asking “Can fashion can be truly sustainable?”