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A large, grey metal boat sits propped up on blocks on a grassy bank. A person in a white uniform stands beside the hull, looking towards the stern.

Nick Ballon’s rare photographic insight to the landlocked navy of Bolivia

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Date
19 April 2017

It took Nick Ballon over a year to gain access to Bolivia’s naval base for his photographic series, The Navy Without a Sea. Just a small part of a wider project – a book called The Bitter Sea about the country’s “longing to reclaim its ocean” – this series for Avaunt focuses on the ironically landlocked navy, its soldiers and environs.

After he finally gained the country’s official trust, Nick wanted to make the most of his time, so lived on the base for almost a week. “We were assigned to the Elite Scuba Unit to look after us,” Nick explains. “We joined them for morning drills, PT, ate their food and were assigned basic sleeping quarters until the commander of the base found out where we were staying and very graciously offered his house to us, perched up on a hill overlooking the base.”

“As a photographer, you always want to keep a certain distance from the subject. You’re there but you’re not there. It can be quite lonely being surrounded by so many people. So in terms of intensity, I could feel the pain of the young recruits as they struggled through their training but I am there to convey that in my own particular way. The intensity for me was working out how to tell this story.”

Due to its landlocked state, the Bolivian navy is “primarily ceremonial” Nick says. “There is a very little chance Bolivia will go to war, so combat-hardened troops are not something they prepare much for. As a result the whole naval base had a very friendly, welcoming atmosphere about it.

“Bolivia in general is a very modest country and its navy is no different,” he continues. “Its boats are outdated and the technology bygone but this has a certain ‘back to basics’ charm to it. Its this sense of modesty that is so often prevalent in the country, that I wanted to bring across in the series.”

His book, The Bitter Sea, is due out in the next couple of years.

Nick worked with his assistant/translator, Jahel Guerra Roa, and Avaunt’s picture editor Madeleine Penny and creative director designer Matt Willey, alongside Blink Art. Nick also credits the Bolivian Navy “especially to the commander Capitán de Navío Marco Sangueza Characayo”.

A person in black tactical gear and a mask stands before a large, white ship’s wheel sculpture. The wheel is inscribed with the words “Volveremos a los puertos del pacifico”. The sculpture sits on a blue tiered plinth by a lake, with a white dog lying on the ground nearby. In the background, brown hills rise under a cloudy sky.
Above

Nick Ballon: The Navy Without a Sea

Two people in black swimwear float on their backs in pale, shimmering water. One person wears a swim cap and goggles, looking calmly towards the camera.
Above

Nick Ballon: The Navy Without a Sea

A line of soldiers in camouflage uniforms and blue berets stand at attention, holding rifles. They are positioned in front of a body of water with a large, barren hill in the background.
Above

Nick Ballon: The Navy Without a Sea

A group of people stand together on a narrow dirt path along a rocky coastline. To their left, a steep, arid cliff rises up, while a calm blue sea stretches to the horizon.
Above

Nick Ballon: The Navy Without a Sea

A group of people in camouflage uniforms stand in formation on a concrete plaza, each holding a small red and yellow flag. They are positioned in a V-shape against a backdrop of green hedges, a lake and rolling hills.
Above

Nick Ballon: The Navy Without a Sea

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About the Author

Jenny Brewer

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Jenny oversees editorial output across It’s Nice That. Get in touch with writing pitches for features or opinion pieces, big creative story tips, or questions about all things editorial. [email protected]

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