Since Hedi Slimane took over from Stefano Pilati as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent early last year, he’s made a whole heap of divisive changes – not least shortening the name of the iconic fashion house to Saint Laurent – and his debut of the Resort 2014 collection this week stands as solid proof that he doesn’t intend to slow down any time soon.
While retailers first caught a glimpse of the elegant monochromatic collection in the New York presentations, the rest of the world was allowed to see it in the form of a first look; but Hedi overturned the traditional click-through slideshow in favour of an altogether more elaborate editorial affair. Shooting the looks with his own fair hand, Hedi chose a stark, minimal carpark setting in which to abandon the deadpan glares and lifeless poses usually adopted by models. The result is a portrait of the Saint Laurent woman in all of her sheer black drapery and leather-clad limbs, and a drastic upheaval of the well-worshipped format which the fashion industry tend to tentatively follow.
Would Yves have approved? The man whose designs ignited an uproar of distaste with each nudge towards the wall of convention, whose collections were regularly labelled ‘a tour de force in bad taste’? It’s easy to forget how revolutionary Saint Laurent was in his time now that his best-revered ideas have been absorbed into the contemporary landscape but, seeing as he was the original rebel looking to democratise fashion, I think it’s safe to say that yes, he probably would.
- Dressed in Black: the resolute book covers of the Spektrum series
- Dima Shriyeav’s textured poster designs incorporate hand-drawn and digital elements
- Hai-Hsin Huang’s detailed and delicate illustrations present “the lightness of being”
- Laurent Eisler draws playful figures in “precariously balanced compositions”
- Small Gods magazine explores “anomalies of the drone”
- Adam Wells animates Love and Radio’s Dan Deacon interview through obtuse vignettes
- Fashion photographer Miles Aldridge shoots the cast of Game of Thrones for Time Magazine
- The Netherlands’ royal crest changes gender for national women’s football team kit by Nike
- Peek inside erotic magazine Odiseo’s very NSFW tenth issue
- Rick and Morty’s Exquisite Corpse trailer features 22 animators including Simon Landrein and Bendik Kaltenborn
- Design director, Gail Bichler, on The New York Times Magazine typography exhibition
- Mark Shaw captures the glamour of haute couture runways from the 1950s