Fashion Archive

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    Fashion editorials aren’t always a straightforward point-and-shoot affair any more, very often now when we look through a designer’s clothes – be it in a specially created lookbook or a spread in a magazine – we want a story, visual impact and pizazz. This demand has resulted in many brilliant amalgamations of ideas between designers, photographers and stylists and I for one am all for this type of collaboration.

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    Most of merely dabble in the world of fashion and recycle what little knowledge we have by saying phrases like “yah that’s so hot right now.” But recycle no more as SHOWstudio will be your fashion education forevermore.

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    Only good things can happen when designer Leta Sobierajski gets together with online platform Print All Over Me (PAOM) to create this fantastic series of images for their website and lookbook.

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    As the reigning royal family of fashion culture, i-D has built up an impressive roster of friends – designers, models, photographers, and magazine editors have been affiliated since Terry Jones first set up shop in 1980 – and they’re all happy to lend a hand when called on. So when fellow online daily resource Business of Fashion announced its index of the 500 most influential figures working in the fashion industry today, I guess it only made sense to cast them all together in a film with a suitably flamboyant brief.

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    London-based brand Heresy presented its new collection this week in the guise of its Autumn Winter 2014 lookbook. Entitled Forming, the collection is a quiet amalgamation of illustration and traditional workwear, combining illustrated elements and hand-drawn type with carefully crafted structural staples made from loop-back jersey and felted wool.

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    A brief serving suggestion before you lean back and scroll through this spectacular new work from Josh Reim: put on the Twin Peaks theme tune and sniff some tennis balls. The last time we featured Josh’s work it was to rave about his extraordinarily unique look book for his Autumn/Winter 14 collection which he had shot with the help of his best pal and collaborator, Jetro Emilcar. In his third collection the 18-tear-old ex-skateboarder and designer from Montreal has channelled the cold, dark vibe of the leisure activities of the wealthy.

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    This week marks the halfway point of Fashion Month, AKA the queen of all trade shows, with Spring Summer 2015 collections being shown in New York, London, Milan and Paris respectively from mid-September to mid-October. Exciting though it is, rummaging through the masses of fashion coverage the internet has to offer can sometimes feel like drowning in an ocean of show reports and final walks, so here’s our rundown of the five best alternative places to see the best of the collections this season.

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    A moment please to stop and admire the beautiful graduate collection of fashion designer Saskia Roberts, who designed a range entitled Potter, Painter, Poet inspired by ceramics, and the textures, colours, and patterns produced during the process. The result is a timeless palette of neutral creams, browns and terracottas interspersed with highlights of green and turquoise. She’s artfully employed crumpled starchy cotton to build garments which maintain their form, standing away from the body in an apron-like fashion, decorated with prints which replicate the marbled texture of fabric imprinted with clay. Perhaps the most exciting element is the sparse employment of fingerprints to decorate hemlines, giving the looks a playful, tactile feel backed up with soft linens. As concepts go it could have fallen on its face, but this one works beautifully.

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    At its finest, art direction is about creating brilliant imagery that fulfils the brief it’s been set. Tip the balance too far one way and the results can be sterile or obvious, go too far the other way and you can get wackiness for the sake of wackiness.

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    It’s not often you get to hear the opinions of models. Unless you’re the next big thing in the world of cat walking and clothes-horsing – a Moss, Campbell, Cole or Delevigne – nobody really wants to hear what you’ve got to say. Which seems unfair really, particularly given that they live more exciting lives than most. It’s clearly something that bothered photographer Martin Zähringer too as he’s set up a side-project that gives some of his favourite models a voice.

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    It’s a well known fact that no matter how impressive the debut of new trends on the catwalk are, the ones hanging around outside the auditorium are probably more exciting. Responsible in no small part for the creation of this theory is Tommy Ton. He started street style fashion blog Jak & Jil back in 2005 with zero formal photography training, and has since become the go-to man for all things street style, particularly when it comes to the fashion.

  12. Menswear-list

    Living as the fashion industry does a full hop skip and jump ahead of itself, the menswear Spring Summer 2015 shows are currently in full swing, and though we might not have the discerning eye of Vogue we thought we’d share our favourite collections from the London Collections: Men and the Paris and Milan shows with you. Behold then, giant wooden frames, autobiographical shirts, 1970s details, kimono necklines and men in skirts. Plenty of men in skirts. Feast your eyes.

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    Kit Neale is not afraid of referencing British culture – and his isn’t “teacup-clinking in the Dorchester” Britishness, either – this is England as it’s experienced by the masses. From folkloric traditions like Guy Fawkes day bonfires to hen and stag-dos and pearly kings and queens, his print-heavy colourful designs see Englishness come to life in all of its varying guises, including the quintessential summer holiday which was the star of his Spring Sumer 2015 show.

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    Jasmine Deporta’s new project is created in the spirit of those hungover Sundays when you lie in so long that you start to blend in with your soft furnishings, and not even the sound of the kettle boiling or the usually-irresistible presence of a packet of Hobnobs in the kitchen cupboard can tempt you from your cushiony couch.

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    The game of pairs never gets old – snap is of course my favourite version because of the raw, adrenaline-pumping, thrill-inducing pace of the game. BUT Bianca Luini’s blog, Where I See Fashion is now my new fave.

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    Paris is constantly referred to as the fashion capital of the world, awash as it is with chic ladies dressed head to toe in black, with the occasional breton stripe thrown in to liven up a dreary ensemble. What they aren’t talking about, on the other hand, is the people who really make up Paris’ burgeoning street style scene; the people who are obsessed with wearing all one colour, the people who are obsessed with wearing every colour all at once, or the people who go out with a tiger-print shawl thrown nonchalantly over their shoulders.

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    The nature of the fashion industry (determined, pervasive, ubiquitous) means that after a while those ads that are on every magazine stand, every billboard and every double decker bus get a bit… boring. Even the most impressively designed garments can become as objectionable as an itchy animal onesie when you’ve seen too much of the same glossy images, and this is perhaps why Charlotte Trounce’s work is so easy to enjoy.

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    It’s been a while since we last checked in on Amy Woodside but the New Zealand-born, New York-based graphic artist has been as busy as ever. She’s a creative whose long been fascinated by the visual properties and potential of text and some of her new word-based work explores these qualities in quite an abstract way. She has also just launched a set of printed sweatshirts with the AYR brand, giving some of her pattern work a new lease of life on the sternums of trendy young things the world over. Nice.

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    Some Friday mornings you need something super-bright, super-colourful and super-fun to kickstart your day and send you headlong to the glories of the weekend. With that in mind, may we present this great shoot by Michael Burk for a new collaboration between Sight Unseen and Print All Over Me which is about to go on show at New York Design Week.

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    You know when you stare at the sun for too long and your eyes turn everything dark around you? That’s the feeling that pervades Dawn in Luxor, Kahlil Joseph’s new short for KENZO, which falls alongside their Spring/Summer 2014 collection. The LA-based filmmaker is known for the “fragmentary, paradoxical and beautiful” lens he casts over the world he captures, and all three adjectives are at work here.

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    We’re furious to have only just discovered this (it’s almost two months old now) but one of our favourite designers, Nathalie du Pasquier, has recently launched a new collection with American Apparel. The legendary Memphis Group founder has created a selection of custom graphic prints, evocative of those she designed in her heyday, on a selection of simple garments for both men and women. Personally I’ve never been able to pull off bold prints, but for the fashion-challenged like me there’s a selection of beautiful blankets available too.

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    What can you say about a guy whose bio on his website is just one big question mark other than “Dear Josh, you have the best look book I have ever seen. Explain.” From what I can gather, Josh Reim is a young fashion designer whose clothes look like altered versions of your best thrift-store finds. Kitsch embroidery, cuddly toys and enormous batwing sleeves are met with menacing ropes woven around hems, and cute characters on the fronts of dungarees that look a tad more frightening than they probably should. Add to that mix a bunch of models that look like they haven’t seen sunlight or vegetables for a few years messing around in a dusty recording studio and you’ve got one of the most palpable and inspirational look books you’ll see this year. Just to add to the mystery, it’s almost impossible to find anywhere that sells his clothes. Best guy ever.

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    Excellent jumper-enthusiast Charlie Porter often makes us giggle with his nuanced tales of the fashion world over on his well-known and much-loved blog. He’s really outdone himself this time though, by having a gander on Tinder and seeing what the men of today wear in order to snag themselves a sexual partner. It’s a simple concept, and what better way to get a look at menswear than on the infinite canyon of faces and kooky personas on the dating app? He’s even masked their faces with cute Snoopy images to protect their privacy. Take a look at his reviews of their clothes and take note, his advice is funny, sartorially-wise and a actually a bit of an eye-opener to how effective a simple white t-shirt can be. We’d give you a right swipe any day Charlie.

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    We can all pretend that we don’t care that much about design awards but the truth is that it’s always interesting to see who wins what; particularly when it comes to the Design Museum’s prestigious Designs of the Year. This morning the seven category winners were announced and they are as below; the overall winner will be announced on 30 June and the show continues until 25 August.

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    This month we’ve invited four speakers who are working in exciting ways within contemporary fashion. Joining us is London based fashion designer Kit Neale to tell us how how his colourful clothing and playfully animated graphic prints explore themes of British life and humour, and mens fashion critic for the Financial Times Charlie Porter will discuss his journalistic approach for leading fashion publications and his own personal blog.

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    Nigel Shafran’s approach to photography is utterly unlike anything else I’ve ever seen. Taking often mundane aspects of every day life, Nigel captures them in a way that they’ve never been seen before, turning what we know about photography on its head and presenting something brilliantly enthralling.

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    Most fashion designers tend to prefer needle and thread to 3D printing, but it’s slap bang in the middle of that grey area, where clothing overlaps with science and technology, that Iris van Herpen is happiest. She often uses 3D printing, high-tech fabrics and scientific studies to create her garments, experimenting with technology, electricity and biology to achieve boundary-pushing visual effects.

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    Creative directors of Paris-based fashion house Kenzo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim decided to take the usually vibrant brand in a more surreal and sinister direction with their Autumn Winter 2014 collection, and who better to help them with such an endeavour than David Lynch? They enlisted the idiosyncratic director to collaborate with them for the collection, which they consider to be the third in a trilogy which references his work. David mixed the soundtrack using his characteristic surreal influences, as well as designing the set, sculpting the howling head sculpture which is reflected in countless mirrors bearing over the catwalk.

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    London Fashion Week: the Autumn/Winter 2014 edition came to a screeching halt yesterday afternoon after a four day roller-coaster ride through all the creative and sartorially-inclined talent that the UK has to offer. In between the flouncing and pouting some very impressive threads came marching down catwalks citywide, and as is our custom we thought it only reasonable to take some of our absolute favourites and pop them all on the site. Without further ado then, here’s our round-up!

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    Just when I thought I had seen enough fashion to last me until the next London Fashion Week (which seems to happen about every five weeks) BAM! Here comes a collection that totally blew me away. I can honestly say I have never seen anything like this before, it was like a match was struck in my brain and sparked nostalgia for early episodes of Blackadder and that cute lil’ Childlike Empress from The NeverEnding Story. Dreamy!

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    Super trendy brand Dent de Man know what’s up when it comes to the imagery that accompanies their Javanese and Batik-influenced garments, so they wisely picked set designer Thomas Bird to magic up a backdrop worthy of an 80s music video for their Spring Summer 2014 lookbook. Working to a brief that suggested something “mystical yet current,” Thomas created a set of abstract temples complete with pastel colours, classical sculpture and mottled marble columns to make even the the mandals (man-sandals) a natural fit.

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    Photographer Qiu Yang’s bright, blocky aesthetic lends itself easily to fashion house KENZO, the brand which has been ruling the fashion roost since it was taken over by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon three years ago. The duo resurrected the clashing prints, colours and trademark lion which have been integral to the brand since its inception by Kenzo Takada in 1970, and you can’t walk for more than five minutes these days without spotting a hint of their vibrant colour palette.

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    Elena Stonaker is part fine artist, part fashion designer with the sensibilities of a quilter thrown in for good measure. She makes dolls, paints pictures, and fashions bizarre wearable sculptures from amalgamations of fabric, jewels and imagery that sit somewhere between tapestry and garments. In short, she is one of a kind.

  34. Launchpost-list

    Sometimes when we do something new, like put a magazine or a T-shirt in the shop we get a bit overexcited and waffle on about how good that new thing is. But this time we’re doing things differently. We’ve just released a brand-spanking new T-shirt designed by illustrator Tim Lahan and you can get your hands on it here, here and here. The pictures down below do all the talking we need them to (observe how awesome we look hiding by the cheese plant) so all that remains to be said is what a great guy Tim is for taking the time to do some drawing for us, and that we hope you enjoy these tees as much as we do. Now go get one over here!

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    It takes a seriously design-oriented brain to be able to count illustration, art direction, photography, video and graphic design among its gifts, but Paulo Melo does so. The jack of all trades has proven the “master of none” part of that fabled expression to be entirely untrue, as he really does have fingers in several creative pies.

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    Messing around with paper folding at school didn’t get me much further than a ratty looking origami rose for my mum on Mother’s Day, so Jule Waibel’s incredible dress creations have got me absolutely stunned. The RCA graduate first won us over back in August with her project Enfaltung, and this brand new time-lapse film – which shows the making of one of her Tyvek skirts for Bershka’s 25 Dresses for 25 Cities project – proves that she’s got plenty more ideas tucked away now that she’s out of uni. We can’t wait to see what she’ll magic up next.

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    Young Berlin-based photographer Phillip Koll’s ability to blend fashion photography with sporadic blocks of vibrant colour has a distinctly collage-like effect, which makes his work seem almost multi-media. It’s a clever illusion, created through inventive set design and careful composition, and one that’s very effective.

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    If you’re a dedicated It’s Nice That podcast listener then you may have heard a disgruntled Rob Alderson utter the words “it’s all just a bit confusing really, isn’t it?” in last night’s instalment, midway through our chat about London Collections: Men, the mens’ fashion spectacular which is currently sweeping through London. To rectify not only the general bewilderment about what exactly LC:M is, then, and to bring to your attention the shows we thought stood out the most, we thought we’d bring you roundup of our five favourite shows and the designers creating them.

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    By all accounts Tigersushi Furs is one heck of a cool boutique store in Paris hawking the finest patterned clothing money can buy and an eclectic mix of other curated products (they’re also a small record label). For their Winter 2013 range they enlisted the help of fellow Parisians L’Etiquette to help them create a campaign for their patterned finery that makes all wearers of their clothing look like they’re having THE BEST time. The premise is simple: man and woman battle furiously over a pile of lovely clothes, cavorting around a plush modernist building complete with grand piano, mid-century furniture and brutalist stairways while a quizzical ginger cat looks on in confusion. Works for me. I’m off to buy a cardigan.

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    Between them, Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff create that rarest of creatures in the British fashion industry – the designer duo that combines references as diverse as Wednesday Addams, Queen Elizabeth I, disco aliens and Courtney Love and squashes them into one gloriously theatrical creative vision like they were always meant to be together. At London Fashion Week, it’s only the models that Meadham Kirchhoff send out who are allowed to pick flowers out from giant bouquets, eat cupcakes and throw handfuls of glitter into the air as they dance down the catwalk. Likewise, they’re the only ones capable of making a comparatively sombre fashion crowd laugh and clap along with their frolics.