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A large red and white Ultraman statue stands atop a black sphere in a Japanese street. A child in camouflage clothing leans over a silver metal railing in the foreground.

Paul Hiller’s bittersweet photographs document the ultimate form of escapism

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Date
24 October 2019

There’s always a bittersweet feeling when it comes to looking at pictures of amusement parks. Something about it reminds you of a simpler time that’s slipped through your fingers, a day out in one of the ultimate spaces for escapism. Despite coming in many shapes and sizes, you just sort of know when you’re in one of them, from the smells, the crowds, and the sounds. But across the world, they’ve also developed their own visual language – from the massive interlocking frames of roller coasters to highly decorated, themed amenities.

What German photographer Paul Hiller has achieved with his ongoing project, Happy Sad Places, is basically a typology of this visual language. For the past 12 years, Paul has been photographing amusement parks around the world, from the famous to the obscure, steadily capturing syrupy scenes in these parks. “I started my amusement park series – or how I call them now, Happy Sad Places, in 2007 on a road trip through the USA,” Paul tells It’s Nice That. “The colours and tones are very important to me, and it is a significant part of my pictures.”

One reason why his photographs feel bittersweet is because more often than not, the photographs show the parks in a rarely-seen light, devoid of the usual density, presenting you with the eerily serene. With passers-by facing away, uninterested and immune to the sights, or exhausted visitors resting and comparing photographs, a looming question remains: what happens when the world’s happiest places don’t have anyone to make happy?

Paul tells us about Space World, an “old-fashioned space-themed amusement park in the south of Japan” that he photographed in 2017 with an exact replica of a US space shuttle as their main attraction as one of the most memorable places he went to. “I loved the atmosphere and the slightly morbid charm there,” he says. “Another important reason why I mentioned this park is that it was demolished at the end of 2017, so all my pictures from this place can’t be replicated anymore.”

A full-scale model of the Nasa space shuttle Discovery stands framed by a looping green roller coaster track. Three people in olive green jumpsuits stand on a path in the foreground, looking up at the shuttle.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

This wasn’t the only place that has closed down since Paul photographed them. “My work is always a bit of a preservation of an older time,” he explains. Paul considers his work a mix of landscape and report photography, the pastel style he chooses helping this consistent process of documentation. He chose to shoot analogue after picking it up whilst working as a photo lab manager. “I was fascinated by the many possibilities and materials you can use to modify your own images, just by choosing the right film, cameras, and process for developing.” Even until now, Paul still uses the same set of techniques to produce this aesthetic: a 70 year-old camera, a film that hasn’t changed for about 20 years, and a film scanner that came out 20 years ago.

Paul shows us pictures from the past two years, with snippets from trips to parks in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and Singapore. While in Ho Chi Minh city, he visited a Buddhism-themed amusement and water park, embellished with dragon and buddha statues between the rollercoasters and the waterslides. “It was very different to all the other places I’ve visited before. People actually go there to pray or to pay tributes, then go on to have some fun on the thrilling rides,” he says. Despite the thematic differences across these parks, Paul’s work always finds the beautiful, the weird, and the fleeting in all these utopias.

A giant blue robot sculpture stands with legs wide and one arm raised in a celebratory pose. It features a red stripe across its torso and small green accents on its chest.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A giant white Gundam robot stands tall against a clear blue sky. Behind it, a building features brand logos for “Uniqlo”, “H&M” and “Adidas”, alongside the words “Diver City Tokyo”.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A colossal stone sculpture of a bearded face is carved into a grey mountain. In the foreground, a swimming pool is surrounded by palm trees and stacks of colourful inflatable rings.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A person holds a child inside the open mouth of a large, gold and pink dragon sculpture. Tropical palm trees and a red ornate gate stand in the background.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

Three people stand on a bridge, one holding a bright pink umbrella. In the background, a large statue of Buddha sits atop a tiered pagoda, surrounded by traditional Chinese architecture.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

An amusement park with a blue roller coaster track running across the frame. In the foreground, five animal-shaped ride-on toys are scattered across a grey paved area.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A child in a blue outfit stands in the doorway of a light blue building. A yellow sign above the door features the “Kodak” logo and Chinese characters.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A person in a red and white uniform stands beside a small, mint-green robot in front of a colourful building. Above them, a red sign features a white fish and Japanese text, while a dome-shaped robot hangs from a metal arm.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A roller coaster train climbs a steep white wooden track against a clear turquoise sky. A single white cloud floats beside the towering structure.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A person sits at a white ornate metal table in an outdoor cafe. Behind them, a large “Space Shuttle” ride structure towers over a replica shuttle marked “Nasa Discovery”.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A person in a straw hat, pink shirt and teal trousers stands beneath a giant sculpture of a smiling face. The face forms an archway, with its open mouth serving as the entrance to a building.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

A person walks away from the camera towards a brightly coloured, whimsical building in a theme park. A pink and yellow roller coaster track curves high above the scene.
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Paul Hiller: Happy Sad Places

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About the Author

Alif Ibrahim

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Alif joined It's Nice That as an editorial assistant from September to December 2019 after completing an MA in Digital Media at Goldsmiths, University of London. His writing often looks at the impact of art and technology on society.

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