This season’s Fashion Week has so far showcased some promising new talents like A V Robertson, demonstrated refreshing outlooks with brands like Gypsy Sport’s casting choices, and has even seen the Queen of England sit side-by-side with Anna Wintour. But, it was the exciting and innovative set designs that caught our eye. From rainbow light displays to dystopian farms, below we pick out some of the best.
United Visual Artists: Burberry
Burberry’s FW18 show shined bright during this season’s Fashion Week, not least because of the London-based studio United Visual Artists’ impressive light installations. The show was framed by two separate light displays, the first named Our Time, consisted of 21 swinging, sound-sensitive pendulum lights, creating rotating circular shapes on the catwalk. “Our Time is a multi-sensory immersive installation piece, comprising a number of kinetic swinging pendulums that oscillate and move unpredictably, seemingly unhindered by the laws of nature & gravity," UVA told Dezeen. The second light installation marked the end of creative director Christopher Bailey’s 17-year career at the couture fashion label. It involved 3,000 lights emitting rainbow-coloured architectural formations in support of the LGBTQ+ community.
The Beautiful Meme: On Off
After working with On Off for September 2017’s Fashion Week, The Beautiful Meme have created yet another compelling identity for the London-based creative platform that showcases young up-and-coming designers. Drawing on Dali’s Nocturnal Spectre on the Beach, the creative studio produced an alluringly eerie backdrop animation that featured dispersed archaic sculptures against a black background. “The debauched figures and forms are a representation of the week that preceded On Off as the final show of fashion week. The constant rising and setting of the light source embodies the exertion and time the designers put into the show,” The Beautiful Meme tells It’s Nice That.
Isabel + Helen: Craig Green X Moncler
Isabel + Helen’s giant undulating installations took centre stage at Milan Fashion Week. The design duo worked on Craig Green’s collaborative show with Moncler, the latter of which have teamed up with eight different designers to create a series of collections for the Italian fashion brand. Craig Green’s menswear collection featured amplified versions of the classic Moncler coat, which mirrored Isabel + Helen’s enormous monochrome structures that pumped up and down to uncanny, industrial sounds.
Sterling Ruby: Calvin Klein
Sterling Ruby undoubtedly stole the show with a set design for Calvin Klein that resembled a remarkably stylish dystopian nightmare. The set took the shape of a post-apocalyptic farm with a red barn facade, tractor stools and a floor covered ankle-deep in popcorn. The models wore suits that resembled nuclear protective gear and held purses with images of Andy Warhol’s 1963 Death and Disaster series printed on them. Sterling’s set, whose work often draws inspiration from socio-political issues, felt decidedly suggestive of the bleak state of American politics.
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