- Words
- Gem Fletcher
- —
- Date
- 21 July 2025
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Women’s football isn’t only breaking records – it’s reforming the visual culture of sport
With grassroots clubs paving the way for more experimental kits, logos and ethos, and top players starting their own creative studios – it’s hard to refute women’s football as a space of innovation. Here, Gem Fletcher argues that the sports emergence from the margins has led to a more inclusive, DIY and personality-led visual culture.
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The trajectory of women’s football and its surrounding culture is thriving. It’s already making a profound impact – on society, equality, and education – and the potential is far from realised. But this hasn’t always been the case. In 2015, the US women’s national team won the World Cup (they also claimed three consecutive gold medals at the Olympic Games), but there was no ticker-tape parade. In fact, no one outside of die-hard fans cared. This lack of visibility motivated photographer Cait Oppermann to start making Set Piece, a candid documentary series following the lives of NWSL players like Sam Kerr and Megan Rapinoe. Cait’s drive was not just to celebrate these world-class athletes, but to present the game from an entirely new perspective, capturing the squads in their element: strong, sweaty, boisterous, and yelling at the ref. After six months of getting to know players on and off the pitch, Cait uncovered a more complex story.
“These women were challenged in every way: physically, emotionally, economically,” explains Cait. “For most players, the salary for an entire season didn’t even cover the cost of child care or rent, forcing many to take on secondary jobs to make ends meet. Culture-wise, there wasn’t one. The sport was vaguely pink-washed and lacked any coverage outside of niche women’s titles and offers from Sports Illustrated. Facilities were poor. The players weren’t allowed to play on grass like the men’s teams; their shins and knees would be covered in astroturf burns. I remember one huge scandal where a Western New York Flash game was played on a modified baseball field with incorrect proportions. It was a very different time!”
Gratefully, over the last decade, women’s football has evolved from a niche segment of the sports industry to a dynamic, multifaceted, trailblazing world of its own. This evolution is reshaping how the game is played, marketed, and consumed worldwide. We’ve seen record-breaking match attendance, new broadcast deals, greater representation in gaming, and gains in pay parity for the national team. Women’s voices are now heard at the highest levels of the sport. Still, in the life cycle of a culture, the game is just beginning. I’ve lost track of the nights I wake up with an urgent desire to open a women’s sports bar or start an indie mag dedicated to grassroots squads. Somehow, the hard-fought struggle that ushered the game out of the shadows and into the light has created an aura of limitless potential.
Danika Magdelena / Sirius Films: Adidas Women’s Euros 2025 (Copyright © Danika Magdelena / Adidas)
Holly McCandless-Desmond for Versus (Copyright © Versus / Holly McCandless-Desmond)
“Culture-wise, there wasn’t one. The sport was vaguely pink-washed and lacked any coverage outside of niche women’s titles and offers from Sports Illustrated”
Cait Oppermann
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Copyright © Cait Oppermann
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Copyright © Cait Oppermann
“Historically, the football industry has been very insular, gatekept and also very commercial. It’s not typically behaved like a cultural industry,” says Holly Gilbertson, managing partner of Pacer, a creative studio built to accelerate the cultural visibility of women in sport. “Covid got a whole generation of women thinking about movement in a different way. It re-coded sports because health was wealth, and going out for a walk became the only thing that kept us going. At the same time, Tiktok reframed beginnerism, creating a more holistic culture around participation. It used to be ‘all the gear, no idea’, now it’s cute to try something for the first time. To be in your running girl era, even if you’re lapping the block. It’s dismantling the old world of tribal fandom (you can only be a fan if you know everything) and becoming more about fun and community, rather than posturing.”
After being ignored, underfunded and undermined by traditional media, the culture around women’s football was forced to grow between the cracks, emerging both IRL and URL. Together, players and fans established a visual language that felt more specific, politicised and personal. Ironically, it was the lack of eyes on the sport that enabled this DIY ethos to bloom, forging incremental growth from within that resulted in a culture that transcends aesthetics and instead offers an entirely new value system around the game.
“What’s exciting to me is the shift from ‘heroic individualism’ to collective culture,” says Lydia Birgani-Nia, a London-based brand consultant and strategist working across sport, culture, and innovation. “It’s the grassroots clubs and collectives that are setting the cultural agenda. They’ve been doing the work long before brands caught on; creating inclusive, community-driven spaces that blend football with politics, care and joy. They are the ones redefining what the game can feel like, look like, and stand for outside of the traditional agenda. These movements are powered by people who are not waiting for permission. They’re documenting their own stories, designing kits, running workshops, and building intergenerational networks. The culture they’ve built feels messy, intimate, political – and that’s what gives it real power.”
Pacer: Mitre (Copyright © Pacer)
“It used to be ‘all the gear, no idea’, now it’s cute to try something for the first time”
Holly Gilbertson
Every Sunday, grassroots clubs like Romance FC, Victoria Park Vixens and Whippets FC are building safe and inclusive community hubs that blend an activist ethos with cultural platforms. Lydia, who plays for Baes FC, a collective for women, trans, and non-binary people of Asian heritage, adds, “Clubs like Baes FC focus on rest, care, and collective joy as core values – which completely reframes what we consider “success” in sport. This value system is a powerful counter-narrative to the hyper-commercialised, extractive culture of elite men’s football, and I think it’s setting the blueprint for what sport would look like across the board.”
Lydia is right. Cultural literacy is earned, not bought. And at times, it has been painful to watch brands and platforms attempt to play catch-up. The result is often blatant tokenism, aesthetic flattening and glossing over nuance in favour of surface-level representation. The biggest losers in these situations are not just the brands, but also the players, who are forced to compromise and undermine their integrity. In riposte, players are increasingly stepping into the role of cultural architects. “I love what Grace Clinton is doing – her personality and presence is refreshing and unfiltered in a way that speaks to a younger, more online generation of fans,” says Lydia. “She feels like a player who’s pushing to show footballers beyond the pitch. They’re personalities, curators and cultural touchstones.”
Ella Toone recently announced the launch of her creative studio, Amicizia, in collaboration with co-founder James Marshall. Amicizia’s vision is to forge meaningful connections between players and brands, creating innovative storytelling that resists tired tropes or a lazy copy-and-paste of what works in the men’s game. “I’ve seen projects where players are just an afterthought, shoehorned into a creative, or worse still, the ideas are condescending or a bit cringe,” says James. “Bringing the right team together for every project is important for us. We want to work with creatives who relate to the players, who understand the game and its unique culture.”
Copyright © Baes FC
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Copyright © Whippets FC
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Copyright © Whippets FC
“It’s the grassroots clubs and collectives that are setting the cultural agenda”
Lydia Birgani-Nia
In women’s football, the proximity between players and fans is reinventing the traditional hierarchy typically found in sports. While these women are world-class athletes, we can find ourselves in them, from their regional accents and down-to-earth demeanour to the diversity of body types, ethnicities, and sexualities we see on the pitch. Women’s football is gender-expansive in a way that few cultural endeavours are. In many ways, the game being free from the toxic entanglement of bad marketing for so long, created space for players (and fans) to remain unapologetically themselves – something that feels particularly radical in the growing hostility of a right-wing climate.
Social media has been integral to maintaining the relational culture of the game, offering a direct line of engagement between fans, players, and pundits that feels honest, open, and reciprocal. We’ve seen TikTok fill the void where the media wasn’t showing up for women’s football. “It reflects the nuance and the energy of the culture that the mainstream simply wasn't getting – the personality of all the players, the in-jokes, the lore and the Queer gossip,” says Holly. “It offers a space where different voices have the power to shape the narrative.”
In addition, socials have also become an important tool for players to raise awareness and garner support around some of the more insidious issues facing women’s football. We’ve seen players clap back at injustice, from Jess Carter calling out the racial abuse she has experienced during the current European Championship to Jenni Hermoso standing up to sexual abuse at the 2024 World Cup. Earlier this year, Chloe Kelly exposed her sidelining at Manchester City and Millie Bright spoke up about the importance of protecting your mental health. At every turn, these players have been relentlessly backed by their teammates demanding change through a united front.
Copyright © Cait Oppermann
When it comes to the culture at club level, Arsenal’s women’s team are streets ahead of the rest. From Gay Times after-parties to supporter-led match campaigns, the club speaks to its fan base and its constituent subcultures with intention and integrity. In short, what Arsenal’s in-house team does so well is capture the potency of belonging. Their storytelling translates the deep connection fans have to the club and its heritage, making work that is real, lived and deeply felt.
One of the biggest drivers of progress over the last few years has been supporters using their platforms to champion the game, so prioritising that connection and making supporters feel seen and heard is fundamental. This is where the recent WSL rebrand failed, and the backlash wasimmediate and loud. On paper, it should have been a milestone moment celebrating how far women’s football has come in the UK and signalling the dynamic future ahead, but instead, supporters were left disappointed and outraged by the proposition of women’s football being flattened into a Girl Power Glasto Summer brandwagon complete with tacky wristbands and pastiche design elements.
“I’ve seen projects where players are just an afterthought, shoehorned into a creative, or worse still, the ideas are condescending or a bit cringe”
James Marshall
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Copyright © Nike
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Copyright © Nike
Growing the game at pace means it’s inevitable that capitalist greed will, at times, undermine the beating heart of the culture. But it’s not all bad. Nike’s recent Lionesses kit drop video felt like the first time anyone captured the spirit of the squad while retaining the individual identity of the players. Likewise, Ella Toone’s Vogue Shoot and Leah Williamson’s Wonderland Cover were editorial yet authentic, something the team at Women’s Health failed to achieve time and time again.
As the game develops, new ideas and leaders are emerging. Victoire Souki Cogevina, co-founder of Mercury 13 – a group investing in multi-club ownership worldwide – is attempting to bring the strategies of luxury marketing to the women’s game. Their first acquisition, Como FC, went under a radical rebrand in partnership with London design agency Communion earlier this year. Together, they broke from the past and positioned the club more like a luxury fashion house, complete with minimalist kit design and chic activations. Their plan is to attract a new audience, one who cares less about XG (expected goals) and instead is more interested in stories of female empowerment – tapping into the magnetism of sport without losing the heart and soul of the club.
Pacer: FC Como x Nike (Copyright © Pacer)
While there is still much work to be done for the game, from new innovations to crafting deeper stories, the newfound appreciation for women’s football marks a significant milestone in the journey towards gender equality in sports. What’s clear is that the transformative journey of women’s football is not just about recognition and parity with the men’s game but rather re-imagining sports culture at large. Replacing dated ideas and problematic hierarchy with a new age of expression born from community, co-creation and a shared desire for fun. It’s a game after all!
Today, alongside the relentless dedication of coaches, fans, former players, grassroots clubs, and supporters who have long championed the cause, players are leading a rebellion, redefining strength, ambition, values, and culture on their terms, both on and off the pitch.
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Wendy Huynh: Baes FC (Copyright © Baes FC)
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About the Author
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Gem Fletcher is a writer, consultant and podcaster whose work explores photography, art and contemporary culture and how they shape and inform who we are and how we live. Her work has been published in Foam, Aperture, Dazed, It’s Nice That. Creative Review, 1000 Words and The British Journal of Photography. She has written monograph texts for Rhiannon Adam, Juan Brenner, Maggie Shannon and Flora Hanitijo, amongst others. She also hosts The Messy Truth podcast, a series of candid conversations that unpack the future of visual culture and what it means to be a photographer today. Now in its tenth season, Gem explores reflections on criticism, starting out, mental health, politics and success with guests like Antwuan Sargent, Catherine Opie, Farah Al Qasimi, Carmen Winant, Charlotte Cotton, Quil Lemons, Brea Souders and Laia Abril.