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A couple in formal wear poses for a portrait against a grey backdrop in a residential courtyard. A crowd of people watch from the surrounding stairs and balconies of a grey apartment block.

Challenging stereotypes, Lee-Ann Olwage turns her lens to gender and identity in South Africa

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Date
16 September 2019

Striving to create thought-provoking narratives, the work of South Africa-based Lee-Ann Olwage is spellbindingly intimate. Her long-term photography work has allowed her to shoot various scenarios, which includes the likes of Cape Town’s drag queen beauty pageants and capturing the youth who have finished high school in the Cape Flats neighbourhood of Hanover Park. Her work has been exhibited at Head on Photo Festival in Sydney, Australia, as well as Photo Kathmandu in Nepal and The Interrupters at Amplify Studio in Cape Town. She’s even won various awards which includes this year’s Blink Portfolio Review in New York and she was a finalist at the 2018 Independent Photographer Portrait awards.

Taking pictures is more than just a career for Lee-Ann. Longing for more meaning, she made the transition into photography after a career in film. Previously a props master and set decorator for nine years, Lee-Ann “fell in love with photography almost by chance” while she went travelling with her partner. Now, her work is formed on the close relationships crafted with her subjects. “I engage with people very deeply and, because most of my work is created over extended periods of time, I have the luxury to get to know my subjects very intimately,” she tells It’s Nice That. These subjects tend to be from the communities around her – a different setting to that which she grew up in. “It is important to be aware of and acknowledge your privilege. Just because I have a camera doesn’t give me the right to photograph anyone.”

A person in a long white dress stands beside a clothesline draped with laundry. Behind them, a yellow train passes by a high-voltage electricity pylon under a blue sky.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

Two people look down at the camera from a low angle against a pale sky. One wears a white top and bright blue lipstick, while the other wears a yellow dress with pink lace detailing.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

Finding inspiration from daily interactions with the world around her, Lee-Ann turns her lens to gender and identity in a South African context. “South Africa is a beautiful and unique place that you have to experience for yourself to truly understand,” she explains. “We are a complex and diverse nation who are still in the beginning stages of finding and celebrating our identity.” At the end of apartheid in South Africa, the country’s new constitution in 1996 was governed as the first to outlaw discrimination in terms of sexual orientation. It promised equality, yet the dangers still persisted. This served as a catalyst for Lee-Ann to take photographs, and ultimately led to her most recent project, Black Drag Magic. “[It] takes a deeper look at how gender and sexual identity are influenced by cultural identity in South Africa,” she says. “They cannot be separated from each other yet, in South Africa, cultural identity often denies that queer identity exists.”

A further project, titled Tonight We Dance, takes a look at a neighbourhood situated on the Cape Flats in Cape Town – “[looking] at how former gang members were being used as mediators for peace in a community plagued by gang violence.” While many commented on the negative reasons for shooting in this area, Lee-Ann instantly fell in love with the “beautiful people and community” she met while working there. “One night, I was driving home and I saw a girl exit her home in an extravagant ball gown. She walked down a red carpet to a fancy car that was waiting to take her to the matric dance (prom night). I asked my friend why the family made such a fuss about the dance and he replied saying that she will most probably be the first generation to finish high school in her family, and that only 30% of students who start primary school actually finish high school. It aligned so beautifully with my excitement to use photography as a mode of celebration.” As a means of celebrating the youth who are finishing high school and come from difficult environments, this project is highly representative of Lee-Ann’s desire and ability to capture the important narratives that surround us all.

A couple in formal wear pose against a grey studio backdrop set outdoors. They are surrounded by children and people watching from the stairs of a grey apartment block.
Above

Lee-Ann Olwage: Tonight We Dance

A person in a long red dress poses against a grey backdrop set up outside a residential block. Other people watch from the pavement and the building's external stairs, while laundry hangs on lines nearby.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Tonight We Dance

A person in a patterned shirt and high heels poses in a low crouch on a road. Behind them, a chain-link fence runs across the front of a red brick church with a white cross on the wall.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

A person wearing a sheer, long-sleeved green lace dress sits atop a pile of concrete rubble. Behind them, laundry hangs on a line against a backdrop of corrugated metal shacks.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

A person sits on an orange mat in front of a corrugated metal shack. They wear a black outfit, a beaded necklace and a headwrap, holding a microphone.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

A person poses confidently in a long, pale blue gown with vibrant, colourful patterns along the sides and a matching headwrap. They stand in a smoky outdoor market area with food stalls and grills in the background.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

A person in a long white dress stands with hands on hips in a wasteland of rubble and litter. Behind them is a tall wooden fence topped with coils of barbed wire.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

A person in a white dress and high heels reclines across concrete bollards, looking at the camera. Behind them, people gather at outdoor food stalls under signs for “Mamfene Braai Stand”, “Mambongo Braai Stand” and “Kwa Bhayi Braai Stand”.
Above

Lee-Ann Olwage: Black Drag Magic

Two people prepare for a performance in a dressing room. One person wears a beaded headpiece and a shimmering black outfit, while the other helps them with a large, voluminous piece of white tulle.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: The Queens of Cape Town

A person in a dressing room leans back with their arm raised, wearing a black top and a shimmering green wrap. Around them, other people prepare for a performance in a cluttered backstage space.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: The Queens of Cape Town

A person in dramatic makeup and a black wig looks down, wearing a white and red patterned garment. In the background, other people prepare in a dressing room with a lighted mirror.
Above

Lee-Ann Olwage: The Queens of Cape Town

One person applies makeup to the forehead of another person who wears a gold neck ring and a blue patterned garment. A third person looks on from the left, their hands raised near their face.
Above

Lee-Ann Olwage: The Queens of Cape Town

Two people with bold, shimmering makeup pose closely together in a dressing room. One leans their head against the other, who rests a hand under their chin.
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Lee-Ann Olwage: The Queens of Cape Town

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About the Author

Ayla Angelos

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Ayla is a London-based freelance writer, editor and consultant specialising in art, photography, design and culture. After joining It’s Nice That in 2017 as editorial assistant, she was interim online editor in 2022/2023 and continues to work with us on a freelance basis. She has written for i-D, Dazed, AnOther, WePresent, Port, Elephant and more, and she is also the managing editor of design magazine Anima. 

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