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A diptych of two photographs. On the left, a person wears a large, bright orange and yellow turban that partially covers their face. On the right, a person with a long grey beard wears an ornate, oversized turban decorated with metal symbols, standing before the Golden Temple in Amritsar.

Photographer Mark Hartman's series is an ongoing portrayal of a traditional Sikh warrior order in India

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Date
25 April 2019

The Nihang, taking their name from a Persian word meaning crocodile, are a Sikh warrior order originating from India. Traditionally constituting an important part of the Sikh Empire’s armed forces, their role in modern society is mainly ceremonial – though they are still duty-bound to protect the public against crime. Known for their striking uniforms, which have remained unchanged for over 300 years, their attire consists of an electric blue robe, high turbans adorned with military symbols, and an assortment of weapons including swords, spears and daggers.

Every year, during the Hola Mohalla festival, Nihang from all over travel to the city of Anandpur Sahib to showcase their dress, and skill in martial arts. It was for this that New York-based photographer, Mark Hartman, made his way to India to begin his series, Bole So Nihal: The Modern Nihang Warrior.

“It started out as a literal dream as a child. Every project I’ve done began intuitively; they choose me. Fast forward many years later and I was compelled to learn more about Sikh Nihang warriors,” he explains. “I was very fascinated by the archetype of the warrior, and the concept of fighting battles internally as well as externally. I was interested in the saintly presence of the Nihang and the polarity of union with spiritual and martial life.”

A person with a long grey beard wears an oversized, intricately wrapped blue turban. The headwear is adorned with silver ornaments and a chain, while a matching blue cloak and beaded necklaces complete the look.
Above

Mark Hartman

Also driven by a lack of compelling contemporary photography of the Nihang, Mark initiated a long-term project to remedy this and document their enchanting culture. Embarking on his first trip alone in 2014, he arrived in Amritsar and made his way to the festival, which takes place at the the city’s Golden Temple, one of the most sacred places in Sikhism.

“Traveling in India is challenging. It’s physically taxing trying to get around. The language barrier is equally difficult, and I had to rely on physical gestures when I didn’t have a translator. The Nihang are also constantly on the move, so I had to work fast,” says Mark. “But the first trip was a huge success. I was welcomed by the Nihang and began to forge relationships with many of them including saint-soldier, Saint Jethedars, and other leaders.”

The resulting series, which is ongoing, provides a glimpse into the rituals and customs of the Nihang. Through delicate portraiture, the faces of the warriors give humanity to their order, transforming them from religious and historical symbols into real people. Elements of modernity and tradition juxtapose in the photos, contextualising the Nihang’s place in contemporary society as a stronghold of Indian and Sikh heritage, and emphasising their cultural importance in a rapidly changing world.

A person with a long grey beard sits in the driver's seat of a green vehicle. They wear an oversized, ornate blue turban decorated with silver coins and jewellery.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person with a long white beard and moustache wears a deep blue turban and matching draped clothing. They hold a spear and wear a metallic ornament on their headgear.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person with a long white beard wears a tall, layered turban in blue and orange. They hold a wooden staff and stand before a blurred architectural backdrop.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person in a blue tunic and turban rides a galloping white horse across a grassy field. They stand balanced on the horse's back with one arm raised high.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person with a long white beard and a blue turban smiles, looking off-camera. They wear a dark blue outfit and hold a silver-topped walking stick.
Above

Mark Hartman

A group of people wearing traditional Sikh attire and turbans stand together. One person in the centre wears a towering blue turban and matching robes, while another to the right wears a yellow and blue turban with an orange shawl.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person wearing a purple turban and light blue clothing looks directly at the camera. They wear a gold sash across their chest and hold a sword.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person with a long white beard wears an immense, ornate blue turban. The headwear is decorated with silver ornaments, coins and metallic symbols against a clear blue sky.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person with a long white beard wears an ornate, colourful turban topped with a silver ornament. They hold a tall, decorated staff and wear orange and blue robes against a backdrop of a city skyline.
Above

Mark Hartman

A person with a long grey beard wears a tall, dark blue turban adorned with a silver ornament. They are draped in a bright blue scarf and stand before a white marble wall engraved with text.
Above

Mark Hartman

A large group of people wearing traditional blue and orange turbans gather in front of a white marble building. Some sit cross-legged on a green mat in the foreground, while others stand behind them.
Above

Mark Hartman

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About the Author

Daniel Milroy Maher

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Daniel joined It’s Nice That as an editorial assistant in February 2019 and continues to work with us on a freelance basis. He graduated from Kingston University with a degree in Journalism in 2015. He is also co-founder and editor of SWIM, an annual art and photography publication.

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